Even if the monitor pops the breakers, you should have enough time to check the output voltages of the four voltage regulators that supply the +15, -15, +18 and -18 DC voltages. Check that all these are fine AFTER you've verified that all the transistors in the deflection circuits are working first, since this is the area that is most likely to pop the breakers. If you aren't hearing deflection chatter, work on the deflection circuitry first. If you have a scope, check the outputs of the DAC80s to the amps to see if they are working.
Once you have the deflection going, and the 4 power voltages are working, their isn't much left but the LM13331, the 7406 and rest of the brightness circuitry.
This is, of course, after you've verified that you've got high voltage (approx 15KV). And those tantelum capacitors can also be a problem. Double check for broken solder joints in the power molex connector.